The Blackwell Ox Inn,
Sutton on the Forest
Huby Road,
Sutton on the Forest,
York YO61 1DT F
ax: 01904 691529
 E-mail: enquiries@blackwelloxinn.co.uk
http://www.blackwelloxinn.co.uk/
Restaurant Open Mon – Sat 12.00pm – 2.00pm, 6.00pm – 9.30pm Sunday 12.00pm – 7.30pm

5 bedrooms from £90.00 per room inc full English breakfast

When increasingly, traditional pubs disappear replaced by ‘gastro’, how refreshing it is to find one that has somehow managed to create both in one place. The Blackwell Ox Inn at Sutton on the Forest is a self-assured, stylish restaurant and a good village pub. The frontage remains much the same since renovations began two years ago, but round the back is where you will find a new extension which now houses the bar, restaurant kitchens, and above 5 tastefully decorated, spacious bedrooms. A close look reveals that all is new, yet careful thought and consideration has gone in to making sure this looks like it has been here forever. Old pine furniture, squashy sofas, open fires, fresh flowers and a wealth of reading matter scattered around creates a relaxing air. Pristine, white cloth covered tables, sparkling glasses and tableware, sophistication. Head chef Stephen Holding claims the cuisine of the South West of France influences his cooking but little of today’s lunch belies that, except one canapé of duck confit. His menu is what could loosely be called modern with a twist. There are interesting and brave combinations of fish and fruit, then meat with fish and caramel with salt. I fear that he may be trying just a little too hard to impress, I hoped he could pull it off. For a while the menu in the bar looked appealing; fish, chips and mushy peas, yum. Starter of smoked salmon, crab and mango salad with potato and thyme wafers worked well despite my fear. Tiny dice of mango added just a background hint of fruit and as the salmon was a thick meaty slice, it took centre stage. The crab added sweetness and the wafer thin tuiles a little texture to the whole. A weighty Chablis from Burgundy was a perfect partner to this complicated dish. Chablis can stretch from thin and uninteresting (despite the name) to intense. Today’s from Domaine Jean Marc Brocard was midway between the two. 2004 was a good year and this wine was a good expression of it; flinty, fresh and minerally, so typical of a good Chablis. The next daring combination of fish and meat was surprisingly good. The chunky monkfish tail stood its ground beside the tender braised oxtail; many a fish would have flagged. The mushrooms unexpectedly were a little overcooked deadening the pungent flavour.. I loved the next wine with this dish. The Vaucluse is northern Provence/southern Rhone and the wines not often talked about except as the poor relation of Chateauneuf. Pigeoulet carries a Vin de Pays classification, a demeaning title, as it is a wine that deserves much more. It is an ideal quaffing red with a depth of character that more than matched the food, especially the mushrooms which are awkward at the best of times. Pudding arrived swiftly. I was more than intrigued by now as each semi-bizarre combination so far had worked. The chocolate pudding was a rich squishy, concoction, the clotted cream, creamy. The caramel was caramely; sugary and sweet but nowhere could I find the salt? A pinch of salt in sweet dishes does lift the flavour and maybe this was where it was hiding. To be truthful, I don’t know what I was expecting. Perhaps some things are just best left alone, as with this dish. It was however, a great pudding. The Blackwell Ox is refreshingly good. The staff are on purpose but have time to stop and chat. Chef and his team are not afraid to risk a little, but have the confidence to carry it off and all without a hint of pretension. The surroundings are more than welcoming. What more could we want from a country inn.