The Wortley Arms
Wortley Village, Wortley, Sheffield, South Yorkshire, S35 7DB Tel: 0114 2888749
Bar menu served Mon – Sat 12.00 – 9.00pm, Sun 12.00 – 5.00pm Montagu’s - Tues – Sat from 7.30pm
When a favourite village pub is taken over by a Masterchef of Great Britain, it is no wonder the locals dread another gastro pub looming on the horizon. The Wortley Arms pub sits at the centre of the picturesque village of Wortley, north of Sheffield, on the fringe of the Peak District. It was long the heartbeat of the village as well as home to the local folk group. Chef Andy Gabbitas bought it early in 2006 but planning permission for the 250-year old listed building was fraught with trouble and the long-awaited reopening didn’t arrive until November.
“The locals feared another poncey dining pub, but I hope I have calmed those doubts” says Andy.
He certainly has. Not only does the pub have a comfortable cosy dining area, complete with open fire, dark wood panelling, and though new, chairs and tables that sit comfortably in the décor, there is also a proper Tap Room. This room is for drinkers only with card games, darts and the folk club is back. Anything ‘poncey’ is in the upstairs restaurant, Montagu’s. In contrast to the classic pub downstairs, Montagu’s is sleek, modern and elegant with a dramatic colour scheme in burnt orange and black.
On a windswept, rainy Sunday lunchtime arriving at the pub is like a beacon of light in the desolate landscape. The warmth of the pub comes not just from the blazing fire but the smiles of the staff and within seconds of arriving we are seated, drinks ordered and clutching menus.
The menu is comprehensive across nibbles, starters (from £4.00), soup and sandwiches (£6.00) and homemade burgers (£7.00). Classic pub grub main dishes (from £7.25) and specials with a culinary twist; Filet Steak, Kidney and Pease Pudding, Slow cooked Penistone lamb with Black Pudding and Yorkshire Feta from £9.80. Vegetarians are well catered for and children can enjoy ½ portions.
Andy has purposefully set about sourcing most of the ingredients for the menu locally, Doncaster being the furthest some of the meat must travel.
“The local farmer arrives with the freshly churned butter” Andy tells me “He likes to grab a drink in the tap room while here and I swear you can smell the cows on him.”
The beers are also from regional breweries, Black Sheep, Wentworth and there are regular guest ales to choose from. The wine list offers respectable quaffing wines by the glass (£3.25) up to a civilized £21.00 for a bottle of decent New World.
An unusual Oxtail and Black Pudding Soup is enticing if only to see if the combination works. A Pork, Duck and Fig Pate is, on its own tempting but by adding crispy Pig Ears, irresistible. Clearly using the bits and bobs usually cast aside in butchery are popular here.
The soup, though an unusual colour of somewhere between purple and brown was deep and rich in flavour with the tiny chunks of pudding adding a subtle sweetness. The pate equally had a good balance of flavour, but served straight from the fridge was a touch too cold to show its colours. The pigs ears weren’t as we worried, flapping around on top, they had been sliced into thin strips and deep-fried giving an interesting crunch to the creamy pate.
Being Sunday, there is never a choice for me on a menu. I want a roast, Yorkshire puddings, a good gravy and fresh veg. I can happily report I almost had all these. The charming waitress told me my request for the beef to be rare may be difficult for the kitchen, the roast, as is usual, cooked in advance. She assured me they would do their best. They did. Chef had clearly looked for the rarest slices as each was rosy pink and being sourced locally shone in flavour. My only slight gripe was with the gravy. This one was more in the style of a jus, full of meaty flavour but not deep enough to work with Yorkshire Puds.
Coq au Vin with mashed potatoes and roast vegetables was an acceptable not memorable dish. It could have been. Something had gone adrift with the sauce; it was a little lack-lustre making the chicken slightly dry. The mash had been prepared a little too early in the day and had developed a slight stale tinge.
The Wortley Arms being close to the Peak District it was good to see their famous Bakewell Tart on the menu. Rather than a slice of the tart they came as individual servings. Mine promised to be served with custard but instead came with Crème Anglaise. Sorry, great National puddings as these demand thick creamy custard and I felt to not do so was edging towards pretentious - I have been assured subsequently that you will find it now with the right accompaniment.
Given that overall this was a more than acceptable lunch, the place shows great promise. It looks set to be a destination venue in the area for food and good service in splendid surroundings. I for one would certainly go back, in fact I look forward to it, and I wish them well in their endeavours.